riomaggiore and cinque terre and andre and galleria d'arte sciaccheart di paola bella

We awoke on the morning of June 26 (Monday) in Monterosso al Mare, the northernmost town of Cinque Terre, not sure exactly how we wanted to "explore" the CT. We knew we wanted to hike the route connecting the five towns (which is called Route 2; Route 1 goes over the crest of the hills above the towns), but were unsure how to proceed. Luckily Andrea, our host at La Spiaggia Hotel, who has definite opinions on everything (though he kindly waited for Americans to express their opinions on George Bush before he would express his) gave us very clear advice on how to "walk" the trail. We didn't follow his advice in all particulars, but it gave us a perspective on how to continue. Here is what we did.

A Boat and A Gallery

We learned that if you want to take the trail from the easiest to hardest legs you go from South (Riomaggiore) to North (Monterosso). In order to get to Riomaggiore, we could take either the train or a boat from Monterosso. The boat ride (6 Euros per person) was breathtakingly beautiful, and my friend Virginia only castigated me a few times for forgetting to bring the camera along with us, though, in fact, it was her camera that "we" forgot. Ok, to the trip.

The five towns are not equally distant from each other, nor is walking route connecting the five towns of the same quality or steepness. As I mentioned, the "easiest" part of the walk is from Town 1, Riomaggiore, to Town 2, Manarola. It is about two km in length and is nicely paved. Called the "Passeggiata dell' amore" (Love Walk), this lazy and picturesque part of the path is can be covered easily in 30 minutes, though you simply have to stop and drink in the staggerling views. When you disembark at Riomaggiore you see some shops and galleries, but you quickly realize that this town is built vertically, and so climb you must. However, we stopped in at an art gallery, called the Galleria d'arte Sciaccheart di Paola Bella, in Riomaggiore. Its wonderfully accommodating and helpful proprietor, Claudio, not only gave us a tour of modern Italian art in his shop, but walked through several volumes of contemporary Italian painting to help us find the paintings we desired. My friend Virginia, an art aficionado, made Carlos' day, so to speak, and he called his wife and she met us for a coffee/drink after Virginia's purchase(s). The telephone number of the gallery, which is located almost immediately as you disembark, is 39 0187 760056, and its fax number is 39 0187 760756. Claudio's English is very understandable, and he is a most helpful person.

An Incomparable Restaurant

Not feeling so mad at me for forgetting her camera, and bubbling at her new purchases, Virginia then said she was ready to press on to Manarola. Claudio gave us a recommendation for a restaurant in Manarola, and we took his advice. We like artists, and artists often have a good sense for "taste," so we trekked on to Manarola in search of "Piccola Marina" (or was it "Marina Piccola"?). In any case, we walked the Passeggiata dell'amore and arrived about 1:00 p.m. in Manarola for lunch. The Piccola Marina is on the north end of town, but all that means is that it takes you about three minutes to walk through the town to get to it. Manarola is perched halfway up a cliff, probably 200 or so feet above the Mediterranean, and we sat at an outside patio eating the most amazingly delicious fish salad that I had ever tasted. The sardines, anchovies, crab and salmon were mingled in a symphony of color and taste that would excite the palate of the most unappreciative eater. Oh, by the way, in order to take the trail, you have to buy a ticket (3 Euros per person), which enables you to walk any section of the trail for the day.

Discovering a Jewel

We realized it was nearly 1:30 p.m. and we had only made it about 2 km along a 20 km trail between the five villages, and that we probably ought to get moving. The walk from Manarola to Corniglia was almost as easy as from Riomaggiore to Manarola, but was a little longer (about 4 km) and was not "paved." In addition, the long arc between the two towns exposed you directly to the sun for most of the time which, when the temperature is about 90, can tend to make you feel the heat. No matter, however. We were in Corniglia well before 3:00 p.m. We had to make a decision, however. Corniglia has the most interesting location of all the towns. Perched at the peak of a cliff, probably 800 feet above the Mediterranean, it is inaccessible by boat and difficult to reach by train and car (principally because the train station is 300 or so feet below the town). The trail goes either around Corniglia OR through it, and if you choose the latter, you have hundreds of stairs to climb to the top. But, we are in good shape and the stairs are very human-sized stairs (about 6 inches per stair), and so we bounded up them and arrived in this town.

Corniglia is the most "untouched" of the five CT towns because of its relative inaccessibility. But that means you have great bargains if you seek them. For example, we talked to one man (he didn't speak English) who had just remodeled several rooms and an apartment he owned. These units had gracious Mediterranean views, were at least as spacious as our Monterosso hotel, and were "going" for 60-80 Euros per night (80 was for the apartment). Several were still available in the peak of the summer. He mentioned to us that he would be happy to come to the train station to pick up people with reservations. Now, if I can only find his card....maybe it is with Virginia's camera. In any case, take some time looking at Corniglia if you want a more "unspoiled" place to stay in CT.

Finishing the Walk

We pressed on from Corniglia and faced a surprisingly difficult walk to Vernazza. It took us probably 100 minutes (possibly 6 km or so), and it consisted of several long climbs and descents until we reached Vernazza. Several of the climbs are marked by steps, but the steps are of rock that would be very slippery in rain, and so this part of the trail should be taken only in drier weather. We were hot and tired upon reaching Vernazza, and enjoyed a cool drink at a tower cafe/bar looking out on the Mediterranean. Though we didn't really get a "feel" of Vernazza, we were sort of overwhelmed by the "touristy" feel of its beach. Since Italy was just about to begin its soccer match in the world cup, we hastily caught a train back for Monterosso (we were told that the Vernazza to Monterosso leg of the trail is more difficult still than from Corniglia to Vernazza), and arrived in time for the rest of the match and a pleasant swim in the Mediterranean before going to a very late dinner.

We then were ready to push on to Florence.

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